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Thread: Kasaysayan ng pagkaing Pinoy

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  1. #101
    Over 'kinilaw,' 'bulalo,' 'ukoy,' Kulinarya chefs reunite to mark book's 10th year

    By: Micky Fenix - Columnist / @Inq_Lifestyle

    Philippine Daily Inquirer / 07:10 AM November 02, 2017

    No one was counting but it has been almost 10 years since "Kulinarya: A Guidebook to Philippine Cuisine" was published. And no one was as excited about the reunion of the chefs (Glenda Barretto, Conrad Calalang, Myrna Segismundo, Claude Tayag, Jessie Sincioco, Margarita Fores), the photographer (Neal Oshima), and the editor (yours truly) of the book than Doris Ho, chair of Asia Society Philippines, which published it.

    Everyone made it, in spite of the constant traveling for work or leisure, the guest chef appearances in other countries, and new projects like television culinary shows.

    The event was a dinner at the Rockwell Club, the first in the series of featured "Kulinarya" chefs. Barretto, the leader of the group and head of Via Mare, started the series. This in spite of her busy schedule in catering international conventions and conferences, including the recent Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (Apec) Summit and the coming Asean Summit.

    Ho, in her welcome remarks, recounted that it was Washington SyCip who asked her to organize Asia Society Philippines that had, as its debut project, a Philippine fashion show in the United States.

    Because of the huge expense involved, she said it was an event that could not be done easily.

    More practical would be "Kulinarya," designed to showcase "classic Filipino dishes with the goal to have these known, recognized and loved around the world."

    My task was to deliver a short talk on Filipino food. It might seem like preaching to believers because the majority of guests were Filipino foodies.

    But I have always observed that while one may know about the cooking of the place where one was born, grew up and now live, he or she is ignorant of other kinds of cooking from other regions. And I would like to point them out.

    It is also important to tell the story of how the national table has evolved, starting with prehistoric preparations, what our ancestors ate, and Ho?s advocacy to encourage proper cooking to produce malinamnam (tasty) dishes, and to show that part of Filipino culinary culture is to eat with sawsawan (condiments) and serve food family-style but with elegance.

    It was heartening to know that not only the foreign diplomatic guests appreciated the talk, but also Filipino guests who said they themselves didn?t know that much about our food.

    Barretto was supposed to talk about the menu, but when the waiters appeared with the soup course, there was such a buzz in the dining room that she could hardly be heard. I guess it was enough that her food did the talking. And it started with cocktails: three starters were brought to guests in an anteroom?kinilaw na tanguigue, sisig in cornets, and ukoy (vinegar-cured mackerel, thrice-cooked pork, and shrimp fritters)?eaten different ways with our local rum,

    'Bulalo,' 'tinola'

    The two kinds of soup were served very hot, a tribute to Via Mare's vast experience in catering. One was bulalo served in small, thin mugs, the little cubes of beef brisket and corn kernels skewered in bamboo sticks. The other was a cup of chicken tinola, its presentation as a light custard inspired by the Japanese chawan mushi.

    The seafood course had Pacific bass with prawns cooked pinais-style or steamed in a banana leaf with buko (young coconut) juice and gata (coconut milk). An eggplant omelet and Miponica brown rice mixed with ube (purple yam) accompanied this course.

    Three kinds of salad were served in individual containers?pako (fern) with shrimp, pomelo with radish and banana heart. These were really better palate cleansers than the usual sherbet.

    Three deboned pugo (quails) seemed like a lot at first glance, but perfectly cooked as adobo, finishing them was easy. The other chefs at the table remembered how they hadn?t cooked pugo for some time and wanted to know Barretto's supplier.

    The dessert had a sphere made of Malagos chocolate?the international award-winning chocolate from Davao?and in it was a mousse made of atis (custard apple). Holding the sphere in place was a mix of tapioca with coconut cream and providing sweetness and color were fruit balls of watermelon, mango and cantaloupe.

    Because all the chefs were present, "Kulinarya" books were passed around for autographs. The question that evening: Is there is a second "Kulinarya" book in the works?

    If yes, I hope it doesn't take as long as the three years it took to publish the first one, which won the National Book Award for Best Food Book and Design and the international Gourmand Awards Best Historical Cookbook in 2008.
    FRIENDS LANG KAMI

  2. #102
    The best chili crispy pata in the country

    By: Sandy Daza - Columnist / @Inq_Lifestyle

    Philippine Daily Inquirer / 07:35 AM November 23, 2017

    There was only a handful of Pinoy restaurants in the '70s and '80s. We were teenagers then, and friends Jun and Jimmy Rodriguez would treat us to a restaurant around the Mabini area called Tipanan.

    It was one of the first places where I really enjoyed Pinoy food. Of course, there was Barrio Fiesta whose crispy pata is still the best for me, even today.

    I remember chatting once with Rod Ongpauco (inventor of the crispy pata) about how he, as a student, would drive to San Sebastian, pass by La Loma and buy the unsold left-over pata from the lechon, then season them and have them fried at Barrio Fiesta. He would give his waiters a commission for every pata they sold. And the rest is history.

    Today, crispy pata is so popular, it is offered in almost all Pinoy restaurants.

    A Quezon City resto claims to be able to cut its pata with a popsicle stick, Malabon has another version with a mildly sweet sauce, while independent stall Annalisa offers another delicious version of this dish.

    Food lover

    In the '80s, one of my favorite Pinoy restaurants was Tito Rey's. Rey Bautista was not only a food lover, he also knew how to cook good Pinoy food. He knew what we Pinoys enjoyed eating. Rey even opened in Daly City in California and ran a successful bar-restaurant there. Then he disappeared from the culinary scene.

    Today, that food is back in his brother Chito's Kuya's restaurant. I know he has a branch in Bayani Road in Taguig. Recently, I was able to check out his place just across from ABS-CBN on Mother Ignacia Street in Quezon City. I can now say this will be my new hangout.

    The resto serves below-zero beer and every so often has live entertainment. But apart from those attractions, there's Chito's food that is worth looking into.

    We started with ordinary cheese pizza, which was good. The secret to a good pizza is the crust, and this place makes a pretty good version.

    Then came a different batchoy with just tender pork meat innards, unlike the Iloilo batchoy with noodles. The hot broth was very soothing.

    Other dishes worth checking out are the dilis bagoong rice, simple yet delicious, the rice well-seasoned, with slight saltiness coming from the crispy dilis; and the kuripot rice: breakfast fried rice with chunks of tapa, tocino, longaniza, spam and salted egg, a dish that tells me Chito is an imaginative, creative eater and cook.

    Roxas adobo

    There's also Roxas adobo, a version of which I used to cook in Paris after long hours of fencing in the kitchen. This is crispy, dry, dark, oily, tender and sticky pork belly adobo, to me the best version there is. I like to fork out a piece, then bounce it on my rice to get some of that flavor all over, and then pig out.

    But the dish that really jumped out at me was the TKO (Total Knockout Obsession), or Knockout Knuckles. Tito Rey's crispy pata resurrected! I tried it, and it is still the best-tasting chili crispy pata in the country - tender, crispy, spicy, oily chunks of crispy pata topped and loaded with crunchy garlic and swimming in olive oil and sauteed jalapeno chilis. With ice cold Light - patay! Calling my friends in ABS-CBN across the street!

    Pinoy food is alive and kicking, and you'll find it at Kuya's in Quezon City.

    But let's give credit where credit is due. Thank you, Rod Ongpauco of Barrio Fiesta, for inventing crispy pata. Salamat pare, mabuhay ka!

    Happy eating!
    Last edited by Joescoundrel; 11-23-2017 at 10:28 AM.
    FRIENDS LANG KAMI

  3. #103
    Filipino cuisine gains foothold in New York

    07:20 AM November 27, 2017

    NEW YORK - The tuna jaw is a great arc of meat, curved like a boomerang, its underside all bone and gleaming skin.

    At Tito Rad's Grill in Woodside, Queens, tuna jaw is offered in three sizes, which increase in menace. Smoke from the grill burrows deep into the flesh, which diners peel off the bone in creamy strips.

    In the Philippines, this is inihaw na panga, a specialty of the island of Mindanao. Mario Albenio (known as Boyet), the chef and owner of Tito Rad's, grew up there, on a farm in Tacurong City in the province of Sultan Kudarat, where his mother ran a carinderia, or small roadside restaurant.

    Tuna jaw reminds him of "going to the beach, playing guitars, booze," Albenio said.

    "I wanted to be a forester," he went on with a sigh. "Close to nature." Instead, he followed his mother's lead and cooked, in Manila and then New York, where he opened Tito Rad's in 2006 with his wife, Susan Albenio (known as Toti), close to the strip of Roosevelt Avenue called Little Manila.

    Second-generation Fil-Ams

    At the time, Filipino food was little known in America outside of immigrant enclaves. Only in recent years has it begun to move into the mainstream, at restaurants like Maharlika in Manhattan, Bad Saint in Washington and Lasa in Los Angeles, run by second-generation Filipino-Americans unbound by tradition.

    Their approach to the cuisine of their childhoods is a mix of scholarship, invention and battle cry.

    Tito Rad's is a reminder that fine Filipino cooking has been with us all along. For here, as for the last decade, is ukoy, fritters of shrimp ensnared in deep-fried tendrils of bean sprouts and carrots, with club soda in the batter to give it a lift.

    And immaculate cylinders of lumpiang shanghai, often compared with Chinese spring rolls but more slender and delicate, their crispy skins like gilded air. And tortang talong, whole eggplant buried in an omelet with only the stem peeking out and the bronzed eggs disclosing seams of pork and shrimp.

    'Sisig'

    Sisig, typically a hash of pig face (snout, jowls, ears), is here all pliant pork belly, reduced to juicy rubble, baked and then half-charred on a hissing skillet in a lacework of onions, whose sweetness cuts the fat.

    A rinse of lemon and the meat arrives still cooking and crackling as it lands on the table, smoke rolling off the hot plate and a raw yolk (on request) trembling at the center.

    Alongside that daunting tuna jaw might be kalderetang kambing, goat braised in tomato pur?e, with green olives leaching brine and liver p?t? extending its dark mineral contour. More liver p?t? is loosened with vinegar as a dipping sauce for lechon kawali, hunks of pork belly that emerge from the fryer equal parts shatter, sink and chew.

    Ampalaya, or bitter melon, is tossed into a pan of scrambled eggs at the last minute, so it loses none of its color or crunch. It's still defiantly bitter, but with a cooling freshness.

    Langka, or jackfruit, is slowly undone by coconut milk, until its texture is somewhere between short rib and potato.

    'Laing'

    Best of all is laing, a tangle of taro leaves, flown in from Hawaii and carefully pruned of their stems, saturated with coconut milk and braised into a soupy, sublime mess. (Be warned: For most of the vegetable dishes here, pork and shrimp lie in the depths.)

    A few years ago, Tito Rad's (the name means Uncle Rad's, short for Conrado) took over the storefront next to its original location. Now there?s a backroom for spillover and sprawling parties, outfitted with wooden slat windows and green wall panels, which Albenio wistfully said was meant to evoke outdoor dining.

    Tables are covered in white paper, quickly stained by the procession of dishes. The front window is etched with the restaurant's logo, a man in a fedora, testament to Albenio's love of hats.

    Dessert is another crowd of plates: airy turon, lumpia with oozy guts of caramelized banana; a threesome of dense cassava cake, jammy ube halaya and leche flan, akin to cr?me caramel; and langka ice cream, made by Nenette Albenio, the chef's sister, which tastes of sheer voluptuousness and, improbably, the scent of sampaguita, Philippine jasmine.

    One night, there were slices of birthday cake, too, insistently shared by a 75th birthday party in raucous swing. With the cake came a story, of how the woman of honor had never married, how she had instead devoted her life to bringing her relatives to the United States, all of them now assembled here. The inscription in the icing read: Auntie. - NEW YORK TIMES NEWS SERVICE
    Last edited by Joescoundrel; 11-27-2017 at 10:19 AM.
    FRIENDS LANG KAMI


 
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